Cost: $15
Time: 2 to 3 hours (20 minutes to set up the repair, 5 minutes to place and shape the putty, an hour or two to let it cure, 10 minutes to sand it, 30 minutes to paint it and let it dry)
Time: 2 to 3 hours (20 minutes to set up the repair, 5 minutes to place and shape the putty, an hour or two to let it cure, 10 minutes to sand it, 30 minutes to paint it and let it dry)
Materials: Epoxy putty, sandpaper, razor blade, Sharpie marker or paint, gloves (optional)
When
notebooks get dropped, more often than not they land on the corner, one
of the weakest parts of the case. Unless you have a rugged notebook,
there's a good chance that after an encounter with gravity, the corner
will be cracked or -- as was the case with my Toshiba Satellite Pro 6100
-- broken through completely.
It happened in an airport holding pen some time ago when I sneezed
while typing an e-mail. The system went flying and smacked into the
floor. Before I got home, I put a Band-Aid over the damaged area to keep
the elements out. Now it's time to fix it for real.
The secret is to use epoxy putty to fill in the broken part of the case. Epoxy putty is available online
or at any hardware store for around $4 to $6 a tube, so you can even do
this repair on the road. The brand of putty you choose doesn't matter,
but avoid the quick-setting variety because it might harden before
you're done.
First, make sure the damaged area is clean and free of dirt and loose pieces.
Then
it's time to prepare the putty. It comes as a cylinder with two
components wrapped around each other. Just cut a section off and twist
the parts together.
Mix the two putty components completely.
The key to a smooth case repair is to thoroughly mix the two
components together in your hands. Because the putty hardens as the
result of a chemical reaction between the two parts, it's important that
they are completely blended together. You might want to use gloves for
this part because some people are sensitive to the chemicals in the
putty.
Try rolling the putty into a long cylinder and then folding
it over itself several times. After a few minutes, the putty becomes a
uniform white or gray and you're ready.
You'll feel like a kid
working with Play-Doh, and in fact, the putty should be the consistency
of Play-Doh, which is perfect for working it into the damaged area.
Press it firmly into the hole in the case and use your finger or a razor
blade to shape it to follow the contour of the case. When it covers the
area, take the flat side of a razor blade or back of a ruler and
compress the outer surface to flatten it. Any excess putty can be wiped
off the case with paper towel before it dries.
When you like the
way it looks, go do something else for an hour or two until the epoxy is
cured. When it has hardened, the epoxy patch is just as strong as the
plastic case.
Many
DIYers stop here, and use the obvious repair as a road warrior's badge
of honor or conversation starter on road trips. I prefer a little more
finishing, so I smooth the epoxy with 150- and then 220-grit sandpaper.
Then I give it a final sanding with 2,000-grit paper that is slightly
wet to remove any surface scratches.
Naturally, the color doesn't match. If it's a small repair, try using a Sharpie marker to cover it up. For this repair, I used model airplane enamel paint,
which costs about $5 for a small bottle; a full set of colors with
brushes is $10. When it's dry, the repair is done and can only be seen
if you look closely.

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